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Faces&Laces 2015 — CODERED Report
Despite the unreal heat of this summer we weren’t sitting still, we went to the exhibition and had a chat with our Russian friends. Therefore, we are going to tell you about some of them.
We will start our way from our stand. Our nearest neighbor appeared to be “the pioneer of Russian streetwear” — Gosha Orekhov who produces those legendary New York courier bags at the time being.
Gosha Orekhov: “Pioneer of Russian streetwear”, ha! Sounds like “Deputy of the Legislative Assembly”, grandly and doesn’t make any real sense. Talking about streetwear — the situation these days is that only the laziest has’t dragged his or her ass from the couch and made some t-shirts. On the whole — it’s not only about streetwear already, it’s about the industry. That is, soldiers of the business, who dream to become generals, moved to China long time ago. Moreover, Faces is the industry. I’m not adding any minuses or pluses here, it is just an accomplished fact.
In 2010, I realized, it’s time to produce messenger bags. In addition, there was a possibility to buy a good fabric, I knew where to weave straps of a nice quality and pick up garment accessories. At that time still together with a partner, we made a line of three bags. The oversized one I named “superpro”, the medium one — “courier” exactly and there also was “minipurse” very small and intended for walking.
CR: “Are you planning anything interesting in the future? Maybe a collaboration?
Gosha: «Collaaaaabs, ugh, collabs are meant to be made with the army, like Alexeev did. Or with ROSCOSMOS. Once, when there was a great interest in the exploration of space in America, NASA had a lot of stuff like that. And that was really cool! But here we have collabs in sandboxes only (laughs)”.
Let’s get going to another side. The giant monster applying prints, looking like a huge octopus and surrounded by happy people — this is a stand of МЕЧ (METCH — Russian for sword) Brand.
This year, the guys haven’t only brought an unbelievable quantity of blank clothing, but also added one of six of their most popular prints in black or red colors on any clothes which you bring them.
Andrew: We are taking part in the exhibition for the third time and it’s just fantastic. We’re definitely unbelievably lucky to be involved in this project. From the first exhibition and to this day, we are very happy to see how many people are doing the same thing as we do, when some are better and some are much better. It is already a success to be part of this.
CR: “Should we expect anything interesting from you soon?”
Andrew: “This fall, we have a new collection coming out, somewhat new to us, which is possibly a continuation of the last fall. This is going to be minimalistic with strict forms, restrained colors and bright details. We are inspired by Norway, by our friends trip, by stories and photos, by the incredible beauty of cliffs and fjords and by natures tranquility.”
CR: “Were you able to get away from your stand to check out what other exhibitors have brought? Do you have someone to mention especially?”
Andrew: “Unfortunately, we weren’t able to see much, since we couldn’t escape the hugs of our friends, lots of smiles, kind words, adding our favorite and already classic МЕЧ brand prints. We do not intend to be rulers of fates or judges; we would only like to mention that it’s better to do something than to just to talk. We are a small creative project consisting of 4 people and we wish good luck to everyone, believe in yourself — everyone who creates something is already on the path to success.
And finally, it was really great to be a part of Faces&Laces 2015, we express our deep respect for the creators and supervisors of this project from the whole МЕЧ team.”
There’s СПУТНИК 1985 (SPUTNIK 1985) brands stand near МЕЧ.
Sergey Patohin — the creator of the brand knows firsthand what punk lifestyle is and implements it in his work. Catchy phrases on prints and already famous «напрасная юность» (“wasted youth”) are the features.
We approach the stand which looks like a counter with «я хуже тебя» (“I’m worse than you”) t-shirts and lighters on it.
We ask the same stuff:
Sergey: “We started taking part in Faces&Laces in 2012. We participate, because we like it when it’s hot and there’s lots of people. We really want to make a joint project with guys from Восток-сервис (Vostok-Service — Russian for East-Service) or Сплав (Splav — Russian for fusion), then I’ll consider it our victory.”
Recently Sputnik have opened their offline shop on Pokrovka street. It’s a small cozy shop downtown. How did they do it? — “We eat buckwheat and don’t show off.”
As for stands of the other Russian brands, Sergey answers: “I like ФИКШН (FIKSHN — FICTION), the ramp and live performances. Also if Cerebral Ballzy had performed, or Поспишь потом (Pospish’ potom — russian for Sleep Later) from the local, then you could drive away to the Moscow river on such event.”
We notice a giant wolf, holding the roof of the stand. Inside the stand, there are black t-shirts hanging on the net with «Ярость» (Yarost’ — Russian for rage) prints on them — this is Волчок (Volchok — Russian for spinning top or small wolf) brands stand.
Волчок participates in Faces&Laces for the second time.
Vasily Volchok: “This event is an important stage in brands life, which gives us a chance to expand the audience, to better understand the specified vector and to build an interesting stand”
As founders say — the main feature of the Волчок brand is prints. They are complete, concise, filled with symbolism. Their plan is to move forward in that direction and try to find new forms of self-realization. Recently, the guys have produced belt bags made of matte eco-leather and made everyone at the exhibit touch them.
Vasily Volchok: “Lots of people bought them, because they thought that those bags were extraordinary, and I haven’t seen anything like them on the market, as well. We will try to stand out even in the line of standard clothes through interesting features and fabrics.”
Our traditional question about Russian streetwear stage —
Vasily Volchok: “From our “brand-friends”, I would like to highlight МЕЧ, who arranged a pressroom right at the event, CODERED, with their plaster casts of clothes, the Goldmans stand with sculptures… and others haven’t impressed me. I haven’t discovered any new names, since I closely monitor the development of Russian streetwear. Let's see what will happen next year.”
Let’s head closer to the quay — stand framed with wooden carcass with jackets stretched out on the ropes in tricky forms is the stand of RIOT DIVISION, a brand from Kiev.
Riot takes part in Faces&Laces for the first time and on our question “What attracted you to participate?" they answer:
Oleg: “Many people knew us in Moscow and throughout Russia, it was logical. We wanted to meet our customers in person, so we came here. War and art walk different banks.”
The brand is interesting for its technological solutions, autumn-winter, for instance. It is planned to complicate the production even more — to add the welding of seams, complex technological fabrics and modular system in cut. This is going interesting.
We could not resist asking what Riot think about Russian street fashion — “I’ll say, that we weren’t impressed much by the brands presented, everyone has the same stuff as we do. T-shirts, sweatshirts, etc. There are rumors that someone is going to bring LMA brand back to life. If so, then it is going to be really interesting! However, for now, the only one who makes expensive good quality clothes is GJO.E, but they are not present this year. I think this wasn’t their level initially.”
Just a couple of steps from RIOT DIVISION is the joint stand of ROOTS PROOT and MASSKOTT.
The idea and the meaning of the brand originated a few years ago. One way or another, the guys had experience in fashion, sports, music and various subculture details.
Alexander Nevelsky: “Hockey theme in clothing is not much revealed in our point of view. This culture is very bright and strong and it has to have its own MASSKOTT (Mascot).
This is our second F&L, traditionally a powerful movement, an exchange of right mood, with unbelievably positive audience and colleagues from all over the place, not just capital cities, which makes us glad. We also get positive feedback and curious comments from the visitors of our stand.
Russian streetwear is still young, hungry and angry, but already has quite a clear industry framework, with fresh blood steadily improving it. This year we are proud to present our new project — Rootsproot. It is a very young story about the brightest pages of street culture, music, art, a meaningful relationship with nature. We have something to say about that, it is going to be interesting."
Minimalistic silver carcass with sweatshirts, shorts, t-shirts on it, and a large sphere representing our planet in the center is the stand of МИР brand (MIR — Russian for peace (homonym: world)).
МИР is a Russian streetwear brand, based in Moscow. The guys position themselves as a brand for the people who like comfort. One of the brands founders — Xenia told us about her brainchild:
Xenia: “It all started in 2012, when I founded “Revenge” brand, the main idea of which was to create technological clothing for extreme sports — rollerblading, skateboarding, bmx and others. I focused on fabric made custom in Russia. The fabric has a special weaving and processing, which makes our stuff more durable. In addition, all our clothes have an extended and elongated cut for freedom in motion.”
In 2014 it was decided to rebrand, and now the brand is called “МИР”
We also asked if МИР could highlight anything interesting in Russian streetwear.
Xenia: “I like how the interest to domestic brands has increased — this gives us an opportunity to develop and be better. As for me, I wear Mono Apparel — the brand of my friends. They make skateboarding outfit with very cool tie-dye prints.”
We pass by a noisy stand with a crowd gathering around breakdancers and come close to our final point — the joint stand of NZ Brand and РОДИНА (Rodina — russian for Motherland).
The stand is a simple carcass of metal mesh with carpet on the floor. It is simple, but immediately draws the attention since these brands are the only brands that came from Nizhny Novgorod.
Alexander Balasov: “NZ can be decoded differently, but our interpretation is “Неприкосновенный Запас” (Neprikosnovenny Zapas — Russian for reserve). Frequently asked question is about the reason why and the answer is simple: Our city is smaller than Moscow or St. Petersburg, and there are few local brands represented, therefore it is hard to find something worthy for the good price. We have brought a collection of streetwear with sport elements with us, and decorated our stand accordingly.
Our plans for the future are great; you can’t say it the other way. We’ve made many interesting contacts, so we expect some exciting collaborations. We carry an idea of developing local events such as Faces&Laces on a smaller scale, of course, however it would become a great entertainment space for Nizhny Novgorod.”
Looking into distance we see Speed Shop leaving in a horizon with countless motorcycles, automobiles with minimal clearance and energetic music playing from the local scene. Another Faces&Laces is over.
We would like to say that year after year Russian streetwear replenishes with new brands on and on. Someone makes it just for themselves, for people, some are trying to catch a trend. Most important, among this vast field, there are enthusiasts who are committed to do fresh and interesting high quality stuff.
While we are leaving to work on to be better, to prepare joint releases and find new sources of inspiration.
Photo - Faces&Laces, CODERED
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